"Hanbok" of Koreans who have kept their beauty from tradition to modernity
The Origins and History of Hanbok
Hanbok is a traditional Korean garment that has been worn by Koreans since ancient times. The earliest appearances of the hanbok can be traced back to the Three Kingdoms period (삼국시대, Samguk Sidae), which lasted from 57 BC to 668 AD. Hanbok is also depicted in the murals of the ancient Korean dynasty, Goguryeo (고구려, Goguryeo), indicating that the basic structure of the hanbok was established during this period.
The ancient hanbok consisted of a jeogori (저고리, top), pants, chima (치마, skirt), and po (포, outer coat), designed with ease of movement in mind.
For a thousand years, most hanbok was undecorated and pure white, though more ornate hanbok was worn for special occasions like weddings. During the Japanese occupation, common people were even prohibited from wearing white hanbok.
Changes and Characteristics of Hanbok by Times
Over time, hanbok has evolved to encompass both traditional and modern aspects of Korean culture. Recently, there has been a trend to reinterpret features from the past and apply them to modern hanbok. Each era has seen changes and unique characteristics, and although modern hanbok may differ from its historical counterparts, it remains a significant symbol of Korean culture, conveying Korea's beauty and elegance to the world.
• Three Kingdoms period (삼국시대, Samguk Sidae) (57 BC - 668 AD)
During the Three Kingdoms period, the basic structure of the hanbok was established. This era's hanbok, consisting of a jeogori (저고리, top), pants, chima (치마, skirt), and po (포, outer coat), was designed for ease of movement. These designs are evident in Goguryeo (고구려, Goguryeo) murals, forming the prototype for modern hanbok.
• Goryeo Dynasty (고려시대, Goryeo Sidae) (918 - 1392)
In the Goryeo Dynasty, there was active cultural exchange with neighboring countries like China and Japan, influencing the design and structure of hanbok. The hanbok of the Joseon Dynasty was particularly influenced by Goryeo style (고려양식, Goryeoyangsic).
• Joseon Dynasty (조선시대, Joseon Sidae) (1392 - 1897)
The hanbok of the Joseon Dynasty closely resembles today's hanbok, with tight-fitting jeogori and wider pants or skirts. This era's hanbok was influenced by the Ming Dynasty, incorporating elements into royal and official attire.
• Japanese Occupation (일제강점기, Ilje Gangjeomgi) (1910 - 1945)
During the Japanese Occupation, hanbok underwent significant changes, adopting elements of Western clothing and discarding many traditional aspects. Women's hanbok, for instance, saw the introduction of brooches and snap buttons.
• Modern Hanbok Evolution (Post-1945)
In modern times, hanbok has transformed through a fusion of tradition and modernity. The 'daily hanbok' of the 1980s added natural aesthetics of hanbok to the basic composition of Western clothing. The 21st century saw the emergence of 'new hanbok,' a genre characterized by innovative designs embracing features of various non-Western cultures.
The Modern Change of Hanbok
Modern Korean hanbok design is primarily inspired by the attire of the nobility and royal family of the Joseon Dynasty (조선시대, Joseon Sidae). As an outfit worn on special occasions, hanbok has adopted the elaborate and ornate decorations of the nobility and royalty and reinterpreted them in a modern context.
In the late 20th century, there were slight design differences among hanbok in North and South Korea and among Koreans in China. However, these designs converged back to similar styles after the 1990s due to increased cultural and economic exchanges.
In 1996, Hanbok Day was established to encourage the wearing of hanbok.
Hanbok underwent changes by incorporating convenient elements of Western clothing in the early 20th century. Starting in the 1980s, it began to transform into 'daily hanbok.' This movement involved adding the natural aesthetics of hanbok to the basic composition of Western clothing, following its adoption as everyday wear.
Fusion of Modern and Traditional
In the 20th century, the fusion of Western and non-Western clothing styles garnered significant attention in global fashion history. Hanbok designer Lee Young-hee emerged on the world stage with designs that combined traditional Korean elements with Western influences, transforming the traditional beauty of hanbok into a global trend. The 21st century saw the advent of a new genre called 'new hanbok,' characterized by innovative designs embracing features of various non-Western local cultures.
Current and Future State of Hanbok
Modern Interpretation of Hanbok
Today's young designers are adopting bold and pioneering styles to utilize hanbok as a fashion statement for global citizens. They view hanbok not just as a tradition but as a unique fashion statement, creating hanbok using various materials such as traditional silk, British lace, and Indian silk sarees.
In recent years, hanbok has transcended traditional boundaries through modern interpretations, gaining prominence in the global fashion market. Renowned Korean designers have introduced hanbok to a wider audience by integrating traditional elements with contemporary designs. This phenomenon has been particularly noticeable alongside the global popularity of K-pop and Korean dramas.
Foreigners' Experience with Hanbok
Hanbok has become a popular experience among foreign tourists visiting Korea. Renting hanbok to wear and take pictures at historic sites in Seoul, especially near palaces like Gyeongbokgung (경복궁), has become an essential part of tourism. This activity is considered an important way to experience and understand traditional Korean culture, providing an opportunity to directly experience the beauty of hanbok.
Cultural Respect and Exchange
The increasing number of foreigners wearing hanbok is a significant example of cultural exchange and respect. When foreigners wear hanbok, it's more than just a fashion choice; it's an expression of curiosity and respect for Korean culture, contributing to the international spread of Korean culture.
• Current Situation
Currently, Koreans tend not to wear hanbok in their daily lives. Mostly, hanbok is worn during special events like weddings, traditional festivals, and holidays. This is attributed to the perception that hanbok, being traditional and formal, lacks convenience and practicality for everyday use.
• Future Direction
1. Encouraging Everyday Wear of Hanbok
Creating opportunities for hanbok to be worn in daily life is essential. This requires modernizing designs, increasing wearability, and developing various styles and colors. The concept of 'daily hanbok,' harmonizing modern sensibilities with traditional elements, needs to be developed and popularized.
2. Promoting Hanbok Wear During Special Times and Events
Even if not worn daily, wearing hanbok during special times and events to respect and emphasize its value and meaning is important. Wearing hanbok is a significant way to experience and convey the beauty of Korean culture. Such practices strengthen cultural pride and contribute to the preservation of tradition.
Importance of Continuous Cultural Efforts
By encouraging the wearing of hanbok in both everyday and special moments, hanbok can play a more vibrant and meaningful role in modern Korean society. Thus, hanbok will remain a significant symbol of Korean culture, conveying the beauty of Korea's tradition and modernity to future generations.
The Future of Hanbok
Harmony of Tradition and Modernity, A New Inspiration in the Global Fashion World
Hanbok, symbolizing the traditional Korean culture, is showcasing an unprecedented fusion of tradition and novelty in the modern global fashion world. This garment is beloved worldwide, inspiring people from various cultural backgrounds.
Recently, global fashion houses like Gucci have been inspired by hanbok in their designs. Gucci's Gaok (가옥) store in Itaewon, Seoul, sells bags, clothing, and shoes inspired by saekdong (색동), a traditional Korean color combination, exclusively available at the store. Moreover, other renowned brands and designers are also showing interest in hanbok, introducing products inspired by it.
This trend demonstrates that hanbok, with its timeless value, will continue to be a medium for global beauty and elegance, blending tradition and modernity. Hanbok will play a pivotal role in expressing and preserving our cultural identity, with its value and significance continuously playing an important role in sharing Korea's rich cultural heritage with the world.
